Laminated Pain Suisse with Toasted Pecan Cream Filling

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Pain suisse is a Swiss and French bakery classic — a tender, laminated brioche-style roll filled with crème pâtissière and chocolate chips or nuts, rolled and sliced like a roulade. This version swaps the usual chocolate for a toasted pecan pastry cream brightened with a touch of orange zest, giving the filling a fresh, almost herbal lift against the buttery layers. The dough uses a true lamination fold sequence for defined, pillowy layers without the density of croissant dough.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. Make the détrempe: Whisk the warm milk, yeast, and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Let sit 5 minutes until slightly foamy. Add the flour and salt, then the eggs. Mix on low until a shaggy dough forms, then increase to medium and knead 5 minutes. Add the softened butter a few cubes at a time and knead another 4–5 minutes until the dough is smooth and slightly tacky but not sticky. Shape into a rectangle, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight or at least 8 hours. The dough needs to be cold and relaxed before lamination.
  2. Make the toasted pecan pastry cream: Toast the pecans in a dry skillet over medium heat for 4–5 minutes, stirring frequently, until fragrant and a shade darker. Let cool, then finely chop and set aside. Warm the milk with half the sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat until steaming. In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks, remaining sugar, and cornstarch until pale and smooth. Slowly stream the hot milk into the yolk mixture while whisking constantly to temper. Return the mixture to the saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring continuously with a silicone spatula, until it bubbles and thickens to a pudding consistency, about 2–3 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in the cold butter, orange zest, vanilla, and a pinch of flaky salt until smooth. Fold in the chopped pecans. Press plastic wrap directly onto the surface and refrigerate until fully cold, at least 2 hours.
  3. Prepare the butter block: Place the cold butter between two sheets of parchment. Using a rolling pin, pound and roll it into a 6×6-inch / 15×15 cm square of even thickness. The butter should flex without cracking — if it shatters, let it sit at room temperature 3–4 minutes until it reaches 55–60°F / 13–16°C. Wrap and refrigerate until needed, but use it within 30 minutes of shaping so it stays at the right plasticity.
  4. Laminate the dough — 3 single folds (27 layers): Remove the cold détrempe from the fridge and roll it out on a lightly floured surface to a 9×9-inch / 23×23 cm square. Place the butter block in the center at a 45° angle (like a diamond inside the square). Fold the four dough corners over the butter like an envelope, pinching the seams firmly to fully enclose the block. Roll out to a 7×20-inch / 18×50 cm rectangle, working gently from center outward. Fold the dough in thirds like a business letter (one single fold). Wrap and refrigerate 25 minutes. Repeat the roll-and-single-fold twice more, rotating the dough 90° each time before rolling, resting 25 minutes in the fridge between each fold. After 3 folds you have 27 distinct butter layers. After the final rest, the dough is ready to fill and shape.
  5. Fill and shape the pain suisse: Roll the laminated dough into a 10×14-inch / 25×35 cm rectangle on a lightly floured surface, short side facing you. Spread the cold pecan pastry cream evenly over the entire surface, leaving a ½-inch / 1 cm border along the far long edge. Starting from the long edge nearest you, roll the dough into a tight log, sealing the seam by pinching gently. Using a sharp knife or unflavored dental floss, slice the log into 10–12 equal rounds, each about 1¼ inches / 3 cm thick. Arrange cut-side up in a parchment-lined baking pan (9×13-inch works well), spacing them about ½ inch apart.
  6. Proof the pain suisse: Cover the pan loosely with plastic wrap and proof at 75–78°F / 24–26°C for 1½ to 2 hours, until the rolls look visibly puffed, feel light when the pan is gently shaken, and the layers have started to separate slightly at the edges. Do not rush this proof in a hot oven — butter in laminated dough melts above 80°F / 27°C and the layers will collapse before they set.
  7. Bake: Preheat your oven to 375°F / 190°C (convection: 350°F / 175°C). Whisk the reserved egg whites with the milk and brush gently over each roll — don't press down hard or you'll deflate the layers. Scatter pearl sugar on top. Bake 20–24 minutes until deeply golden brown on top and the pastry cream is just set and slightly bubbling at the edges. Transfer to a wire rack and cool at least 15 minutes before eating — the filling is very hot straight from the oven.